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Confused About AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs?

Confused About AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs? Let's break it down simply.

INGREDIENTSSKIN HEALTHPEELSTREATMENTS

5/12/20251 min read

spray bottle on book
spray bottle on book

Confused About AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs?

Let’s break it down simply:

AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids)

Best for: Dullness, uneven tone, fine lines, surface dryness
Water-soluble – works on the skin’s surface

  • Glycolic Acid (from sugar cane)
    – Smallest molecule, deeply exfoliates, boosts collagen

  • Lactic Acid (from sour milk or fermented vegetables)
    – Hydrating, brightens skin, gentle on sensitive types

  • Mandelic Acid (from bitter almonds)
    – Antibacterial, great for acne-prone or sensitive skin

  • Malic Acid (from apples)
    – Mild exfoliator, also hydrates

  • Tartaric Acid (from grapes or wine)
    – pH-balancing, antioxidant support

  • Citric Acid (from citrus fruits)
    – Brightens and smooths, often used to balance pH

BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acids)

Best for: Oily skin, clogged pores, acne
Oil-soluble – penetrates into pores

  • Salicylic Acid (from willow bark)
    – Deep-cleans pores, reduces inflammation and breakouts

  • Betaine Salicylate (from sugar beets + salicylic acid)
    – A gentler alternative to salicylic acid, hydrating + exfoliating

PHA (Polyhydroxy Acids)

Best for: Sensitive skin, rosacea, barrier support
Large molecules – gentle, non-irritating exfoliation

  • Gluconolactone (from corn or glucose fermentation)
    – Hydrates, strengthens barrier, antioxidant-rich

  • Lactobionic Acid (from milk sugar – lactose)
    – Very hydrating, supports skin renewal, great for aging skin

  • Galactose (a type of sugar found in milk)
    – Mild exfoliation, hydrates, antioxidant properties

Where Does Azelaic Acid Fit In?

Derived from wheats, barley & rye, think of it as a "bonus acid" that blends the best of all categories!

  • What it does:
    – Gently exfoliates
    – Reduces redness (rosacea-friendly)
    – Fights acne-causing bacteria
    – Helps fade hyperpigmentation
    – Supports the skin barrier

  • Who it's for:
    – Sensitive, acne-prone, rosacea-prone, or uneven skin tone

    Gentle enough for daily use, and often paired with other acids.

Quick Tips:

  • AHAs = surface glow + hydration

  • BHAs = deep pore cleanse + acne help

  • PHAs = gentle exfoliation + barrier repair